The Big Island

Hawaii's winding roads

2010-08-16T10:07:00.000-07:00

I was walking Painted Church Road again the other morning, admiring the flowering trees and birds, thinking how much I love this walk. I’ve walked it for years, at all hours of the day, through all seasons, and just don’t tire of it. It’s another winding farm road and it, like Napo’opo’o, or Manini Beach Road, are remarkably beautiful.

Sometimes we joke that Hawaii is a big pile of rocks in the middle of the ocean. The thing about the big pile of rocks is that it is outrageously gorgeous. But make no mistake about it, the nature of these volcanic islands is that they’re mountainous and feature dramatic rock formations, hills, and cliffs. The older the island, the more dramatic these features are. This is what makes for the variety of microclimates we have here, as well as the unmatched beauty. However, this also means that there are plenty of windy mountain roads to navigate. For some visitors, this is no big deal, for others, it can be a little nerve-wracking.

We have observed that the way you feel about the roads here will be based on what you’re used to. If you come from a place with broad, flat roads, Hawaii’s winding, coastal roads may be a little nerve-wracking for you to drive. If you come from a mountainous area, Napo’opo’o, or any of the island’s roads, will not be a big deal. We’ve had guests lovingly count each bend and turn in our road, pining for a nice sporty little car rather than their rental, they found it so beautiful. We’ve had others who found its turns exhausting and tiring. Unfortunately it’s something that you have to get used to being in Hawaii. With the sheer cliffs and steep mountains come the stunning views, the mind-blowing tropical foliage, and some of the island’s most spectacular spots.

Choice Mart Rocks

2010-08-02T12:12:00.000-07:00

Last month our local supermarket, Choice Mart, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary. Choice Mart is a fantastic little neighborhood market and I can’t imagine South Kona life without it. Although not a huge market – like Times or KTA or Safeway – it has just about everything a guest could need. If you’re arriving in Kona midday, don’t be tempted to stop at Safeway or Wallmart on the way down from the airport (Costco is the only exception because of it’s stellar cheap-wine selection and mega-portions of local fish and pre-packed sashimi plates). Wait for Choice Mart.

Choice Mart is located in South Kona right off the highway, less than one mile south of the turnoff for Napo’opo’o Road (in other words, about fifteen minutes from the Inn). They always have local produce, including lettuces – commercial and organic, cucumbers, tomatoes (including new local-grown heirloom), potatoes, papayas, bananas, and other exotic fruit, as well as fresh fish and local grass-fed beef. One of our guests’ consistently favorite meals is local beef and/or fish and sweet potatoes from Choice Mart, grilled simply with salt and oil out on the lanai BBQ for a sunset dinner. Choice Mart also has wine, beer, and liquor, as well as a small natural-foods section and a deli. They have poke – raw tuna salad with soy sauce, red pepper, sesame oil – in both the seafood section and the deli, and laulau (meat steamed in taro or ti leaves) in the deli, if you’re in the mood for some local eats. They also usually have one or two varieties of the local beers (there are two breweries on the island, Mehana in Hilo and Kona on this side). If you see Kona Brewery’s kona-coffee brew, try it! Choice Mart also sometimes has tuberose leis (amazing), exotic fruit posters, sunblock, and sand buckets and tools for kids. Here’s to little, local supermarkets.

What to do on a rainy day in Hawaii

2010-07-14T13:48:00.000-07:00

Although Kona is the dry side of the island, it still rains here. That’s why it’s so green and lush and lovely. Now that it’s spring and the drought appears to have ended, our normal wet-season weather has returned. For the Kona side of the island, this generally means a soft rain shower in the afternoon or evening, with sun the rest of the time. Some days we get a little shower in the morning, some days it’s clear and sunny all day long. The rain, when it does come, is normally soft and warm and quite pleasant. If it’s raining, try not to be bummed out. Here are some things to do:

Get in the water. Unless it’s windy or the sky is very dark, visibility should still be good. You’ll get wet anyway, so why not?
Go to Volcano, it’s usually wet anyway.
Go to Pu’uhonua o Honaunua. It is normally very hot and dry at this park, and it feels good to be down there when it’s a little overcast. It’s always gorgeous, so it doesn’t matter when you go.
Go coffee-tasting. There are lots of farms in our South Kona neighborhood, so drive around and sample a few coffees.
Go book-browsing: there are two nice bookstores in South Kona. The Reading Garden is just south of us and has a vast inventory of used books, and there's a small new bookstore tucked into Mango Court next to the health food store just north of us.
Sit in the hot tub. There’s nothing like sitting in the hot tub on a drizzly day (especially after an ocean swim or dip in the pool).
Have a massage. It’s pretty fantastic to have a luxurious in-room massage on a cool afternoon, and then go slip into the hot tub to watch the sun set.
Visit botanical gardens: we have the Ethnobotanical Garden and Paleaku Peace Gardens close by which are both fantastically beautiful swathed in mist.
Rest on the lanai with a book: because it's never cold, sitting outside on the covered portion of the lanai while watching the rain drops splash onto the surface of the pool is wonderfully pleasant. From our lanai you have a massive view of both sky and ocean, and it is fascinating to watch a storm system pass overhead.

Cultural Festival June 26 and June 27

2010-06-22T14:53:00.000-07:00

Speaking of Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Park, it's time for the summer cultural festival again! This is an absolute must-see for visitors. You may be lucky enough to see some hula, hear some chanting, try kava, make an ipu, or sample some Hawaiian food. Bring water, wear sun block, and have a wonderful time! Below is the announcement from our friend, Ranger Charlie Hua.

For more details, check out the park website: http://www.nps.gov/puho/index.htm

Aloha everyone,

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park will be celebrating its 49^th Anniversary and Annual Cultural Festival on Saturday, June 26^th, and Sunday, June 27^th, from 9:00am to 3:00pm. Our theme for this year is, “Nā Hana Lima o nā Kūpuna”, The Working Hands of Our Elders. Activities include the Royal court, Hula performances, Hukilau, Canoe Rides, Food Tasting, Hawaiian games for keiki and various Hawaiian crafts. Be sure to pack some sunscreen, water, and hats. There will be no lunch available, so pack snacks or a lunch if necessary. This event is free and park fees are waived for the weekend of this special event.

Mahalo,

Hope to see you all there.

Charles T. Hua

Places we love: Pu'uhonua O Honaunau and Two Step

2010-06-22T14:49:00.000-07:00

The other morning my son’s preschool had their final class at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau in the water by Two Step. Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, otherwise known as the City of Refuge, is a “must see” tourist destination in our neighborhood. It is a historically important site, but also a stunningly beautiful national park.

The park is divided into three main areas. First, there’s the main visitor area. This is where the main historic sites and rangers are (if you happen to be there when ranger Charlie is, hit him up for historical info because he’s a fantastic local resource). This is where the Wednesday evening talks take place, as well as the cultural festival in June. If you continue down the dirt road at the back of the parking area you’ll arrive at the picnic area which runs along the rocky coast, an excellent place to explore tide pools and watch the sun set. There’s a lovely short trail (the 1871 trail) that you can follow along the shore at the back of the picnic area. It apparently stretches all the way to Hookena Beach, but only the part within the park is maintained. The third spot to note is “Two Step” which is on the northern boundary of the park. So, if you park in the parking lot and walk back out, follow the residential side street down to the water, you’ll get to one of the top two (the Captain Cook monument being the other) snorkeling spots on the Big Island.

The other day when I was there the preschoolers were playing in the shallow, sandy boat-launch area next to Two Step. The sun was shining brightly and it was very hot, as it often is down there. Although the park is only four miles south of the Inn, it is noticeably warmer and dryer. This day, vog was visible up mauka skirting the hill tops, but the sky over the park was clear and blue. I played in the water with the kids for a little while and cooled off, then was offered a massage by another mother. We walked over to a shaded area under a large kukui nut tree where she’d set up her table. As I lay there and relaxed and heard the kids’ laughter in the background and felt the ocean breeze on my bare back, I slipped into the beach-coma I often get at that park.

Pu’uhonua is certainly a special place. It’s very peaceful, and I am seduced by its beauty each time I go. The alii (Hawaiian royalty) definitely knew what they were doing in choosing such a fine spot to live. If I were a visitor here, I would give this park at least one full afternoon. If you plan on snorkeling at Two Step and exploring the park, you could easily give it more time. Some visitors prefer Two Step to the Captain Cook monument for snorkeling. For one, it’s easier to get to – you just drive up and jump in. Second, because it’s immediately deep, it’s actually a little safer than a place like Manini (which is shallow and sometimes has a bit of a break) for the novice snorkeler. It has all the same species of reef fish that you see throughout Kealakekua Bay (whether at the monument, Manini, or Keei beach), but arguably more varieties of coral. There are more turtles in this area, and the local dolphins, eels, rays, young reef sharks, and occasionally an octopus or monk seal also sometimes make an appearance.

Besides getting in the water here, I am a fan of the 1871 trail. I often used to take my dog along this trail, until he got too old and arthritic to handle the heat and the rocks. The trail runs right along the shore, up along cliffs part of the way, and across lava. It’s very quiet, and the views are spectacular. The water is so consistently clear here that you can look down into it from the cliffs and see the coral. The shades of water are unendingly varied and striking, and the view of the coastline is dramatic. It takes only about twenty minutes each way to walk this short portion of the trail. Footing is somewhat rough. Walking is easy, running is more of a challenge.

When I returned home the other day, I carried the warmth of the park with me throughout the rest of my work day. You have to be careful down there at that beautiful park; you will soak up so much sun and warmth and peace that it may be hard to want to do anything else the rest of the day but lie around the lanai gazing at the ocean and slowly sipping a cool drink…

Where to hear local music

2010-05-07T19:56:00.000-07:00

Recently, we had two guests alert us to a fantastic new opportunity to hear local music. The old Hualalai Theater in Kailua Town has been converted into the LEAD community center, which is hosting an ongoing Hawaiian music concert series, Live at the Lead.
The LEAD Center is easy to find, located right in the heart of Kailua-Kona off the Kuakini Highway. Concerts are every other Friday evening. To learn more about local artists and see the calendar of events, please check out: www.livehawaiianmusic.com.
Another source for finding out about local entertainment is the Big Island Weekly: www.bigislandweekly.com. Hawaii has some fantastic local musicians and we strongly recommend taking the opportunity to see some live music while here on vacation.

The Drought is done, Kona Snow has come

2010-03-30T20:05:00.000-07:00

Last year the island suffered a drought that left many trees and plants dead. Normally there is a wet season that spans late spring to early fall. This manifests differently across the island. For us here down by the water, this means sunny days followed by a late afternoon or evening shower – perfect irrigation. Last year we had month after month of dry sunny weather which was great as far as our guests were concerned, but very difficult for island plants and trees. Each time the sky darkened and seemed to threaten rain residents would get excited and hopeful. One afternoon while I was in Choice Mart it began to rain and the excitement in the air in the store was palpable. A buzz of happy voices surrounded me and I overheard “it’s a blessing” echoed excitedly and with relief multiple times. This is a farming island, after all, and adequate rainfall is critical.
I’ve been taking long walks out Painted Church Road and have been watching the coffee plants. Many have looked brown and skeletal, with cherries that have gone from ripe-red to shriveled black on the tree. However, over the last few weeks we have begun to receive soft evening showers, and the plant life has suddenly swung back to life. So far this spring we have been experiencing a more normal weather pattern, and the land is become green again. Last week as I walked I smelled the familiar, seductive jasmine-scent of coffee blossoms on the soft air, and was happy to see that the coffee plants are in bloom. Spring has come, and with it, the soft, warm, nurturing island rains.

Damp, Pretty Hilo

2010-03-30T20:01:00.000-07:00

It happened again the other day… We had two different sets of guests arrive within the same couple of days who’d started their trips in Hilo and were aching to see the sun. This has happened so many times that whenever prospective guests ask us about splitting up their stay between Hilo and Kona, we try to clearly describe the two very different climates and what to expect. It’s a difficult task. We don’t want to sound like we’re just trying to sell more nights at our Inn, but we do want to be truthful about the weather patterns. We’re always trying to help guests prepare and plan. At the end of the day, we want them to be happy.
The problem is that the drear and gray that define Hilo’s weather seem to catch many visitors unaware. Especially if you’ve never been to the Big Island, it can be difficult to envision how its many mirco-climates can actually effect your experience, even when reading through tourist literature.
To get down to the point, Hilo is notoriously damp and overcast. We’ve heard stories of mildewed clothes in closets and mold infestations and dripping wallpaper, etc. Each island has a rainy side and a sunny side. The rain makes for the dramatic waterfalls and beautiful botanical gardens, but it can also be a dreary backdrop for a vacation. I can’t tell you how many visitors we’ve had who’ve stayed there first, often splitting a one week or two week stay between Hilo and Kona, and are desperate for sun once they arrive in Kona. We’ve had more than one guest say that they wished they’d limited their time on the other side and spent the bulk of their stay here.
Everyone is different, of course. We had some guests recently who were from Colorado and found the humidity of Hilo soothing in contrast to their cold, dry home. For many of our guests who’ve come from Alaska or the Pacific Northwest, Hilo feels to be just another small, weather-beaten town, for other guests, it can feel charming and funky. Even for guests who do spend their stay on the Kona side, we do suggest at least a day trip around the island to see Hawaii Botanical Gardens, perhaps Akaka and Kahuna and/or Rainbow Falls, and the lovely winding Hamakua Coastline. If I had one week on the island, I’d spend my time in Kona and do a day trip to the other side. If I had two weeks, I may spend a day or two on the other side (Hilo, Volcano, or Honokaa/Waipio), and the bulk of my time in Kona.

Big Island, Big Energy

2010-03-30T19:37:00.001-07:00

With the recent tsunami we are reminded once again that we live in an unpredictable place ruled by nature. We have heard it said more than once that “Pele will test you”, when you live here. Tsunamis may come, earthquakes can happen, strange storms blow through, the volcano erupts and burps vog, and the ocean can shift from smooth bathtub to churning froth in a day. Do residents fear these things? No. Should visitors? No. The magic of this place IS the energy that abounds.
For many visitors, the Big Island is a place of transition. We’ve had guests come here for many reasons: for honeymoons and anniversaries and baby moons and weddings, but also to relax, be still, and heal. When you’re standing at the cliffs at Pu’uhonua staring down into the clear water, or floating on your back at Manini at sunset, or simply watching the ocean shift through the day from our lanai, it is easy to once again feel small but significant. You watch the big sky shift in the volcano or feel the wind rush through at South Point or hear the surf pound relentlessly at Punalu’u and you can’t help but be reminded of your connection to something greater than yourself. For some, this is an inspirational/life-changing/affirming/peaceful feeling, for others, it’s disturbing.
There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the Big Island. Some visitors are heart-broken when they have to leave, already planning their next trip. Others seem disappointed in the island and its vast spaces and big energy and unpredictable weather. I had a guest admit to me today that her vision of Hawaii had been Waikiki. She spent time in Honolulu and didn’t like it, and had figured all Hawaii was this way. For her, the Big Island has been eye-opening and marvelous, but for other guests, it seems to be jarring and overwhelming. As I mentioned in my entry about guests being set on seeing live lava flowing after looking at all the tourist literature, having a check-list mentality here can lead to disappointment. The Big Island is not for everyone. For visitors to the islands who dream of shopping in Waikiki, or relaxing in a controlled environment, then staying at a resort, or remaining in Honolulu is probably the best fit. For guests who are entranced by the idea of so much wildness, who like the idea of silence and being alone and of exploring off-the-beaten-path, the Big Island will most likely be one of the most remarkable places they’ll ever visit.

Kayaking Kealakekua Bay

2010-03-01T17:34:00.001-08:00

One of the most popular South Kona tourist activities is kayaking across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook monument. The bay is an absolutely beautiful place to snorkel and swim. It is a marine life sanctuary and boasts some of the clearest water and healthiest reef in Hawaii. Unfortunately, this pristine environment has started to show signs of wear and destruction due to rampant and uncontrolled use.

This brings up a question that continuously haunts the State: how to encourage responsible tourism whilst protecting our precious environment. For years the plan to control kayaking across the bay has been discussed. Kayaking – like snorkeling - can be damaging to the reef because inexperienced visitors touch/step on/drag boats across the reef, killing the coral. Finally, the talk has turned into action and as of February 23, 2010, kayaking will only be allowed with a permit in Kealakekua Bay. This is a wise move by the State and will ensure the reef has time to heal. Visitors shouldn’t be discouraged by this. It will be safer and more fun to go as part of a small guided tour, anyway. This is a historical area and there’s loads of information that would be missed going it alone. Here are the details:

Permit applications are available online at:

http://hawaiistateparks.org/documents/hsp_kaawaloa_vessel_landing_permit1.pdf

Completed applications can be emailed to: dean.h.takebayashi@hawaii.gov

Faxed to: 808.974.6222

Information line: 808.974.6206

Volcano Notes

2010-02-13T14:02:00.000-08:00

Since we’re on the subject of Kilauea (January was Volcano Awareness Month), I thought it’d be a good time to share some additional information about visiting Volcanoes National Park.

First, the Park is beautifully laid out for visitors and booking a guided tour to experience it isn’t necessary. (However, if you happen to be there when a ranger offers a guided walking tour, please take advantage of this. Our guests that have been lucky enough to happen upon one of these have appreciated the naturalist/geologist-guide’s insight.) There are two main roads that pass through the Park: Crater Rim Drive (which circles the main crater), and Chain of Craters Road, which runs down to the water. The tour buses stick to these two main roads, so all the small hikes/walks/viewing spots set just off these main roads are clearly marked and easily accessible.

However, if you would like to participate in a tour, here are a few that our guests have tried and enjoyed:

By Boat: www.lavaocean.com

By Bike: www.bikevolcano.com

Private walking/hiking tours: www.hawaii.volcanodiscovery.com, www.bigislandoutfitters.com, www.hawaiiforestandtrail.com

The Park is always open; you can go at any time. We do suggest, however, (if it is a concern) that visitors check the Park website to determine if any parts of the main roads are closed due to volcanic emissions (this is a safety precaution) before they head out, or to find out specifically where live lava can be viewed (if this is something they want to do). It is also important to be prepared with the proper attire as the weather in the Park is notoriously changeable. Please bring good walking/light hiking shoes, and an extra layer in case of rain. For serious hikes outside the park and/or lava viewing, hiking boots, water, flash lights, and rain gear are necessary.

Our favorite small hike within the Park itself (there are several extended, serious desert hikes outside of the main park which need to be properly prepared for) is Kilauea Iki (little Kilauea). The trailhead is located right of Crater Rim Drive. We like this hike because although it’s short and not difficult (it took us just a couple of hours total) you get to see four distinct volcano environments in one relatively small area. You pass through one kind of rainforest and exit through another (which means you get to see beautiful plants and hear lovely birdcall). And as you cross the crater you get to see several different types of lava. The day we were there it was sunny, hot, and clear and the olivine deposits in the rough lava (a’a) shone like green diamonds in the sun. Native hawks circled overhead and way down in the crater there was no sound but wind. It was one of the loveliest short hikes we’ve enjoyed on the island.

Sometimes the question about vog, or volcanic smog, arises. Sometimes the smog is so thick in Volcano town or in the Park itself that it is visible and accompanied by a strong sulfur smell. If emissions within a portion of the Park (normally near Halema’uma’u crater where Pele is believed to dwell) are considered too high to be safe (emissions are constantly monitored) then that part of the road is closed temporarily. If a guest has a preexisting condition that makes them sensitive to respiratory irritants, they should take appropriate precautions (don’t get too close to the plume, carry your inhaler if you’re an asthmatic, etc.). However, vog should not be a worry for most guests. I can speak to this personally because I have asthma. It took two months after moving here for me to see that I had an allergy to the vog, so guests who are here for a regular visit of a week or so will most likely feel nothing. My symptoms are completely controlled on medication and, although I carry my inhaler with me when we visit the Park, I’ve never had a problem. As far as vog traveling around the island, it's completely dependent upon the winds. Trade Winds blowing across the island can push it up to Kailua or even as far north as Oahu. The Kona Winds blowing down here push it back the other way and keep our little spot down here near the water nice and clear.

Lastly, it must be said that while Volcanoes National Park is a major draw for visitors, if it doesn’t sound interesting to you, that’s okay! We’ve had some guests who fall in love with the Volcano, some who drive through it in a day and are done, and some who have no interest in it at all. It’s perfectly fine not to go if you don’t want to. We’re not big proponents of “check list” traveling. Just relax and do what you feel like doing – it’s your vacation.

Island Expectations

2010-02-12T14:22:00.000-08:00

A few weeks ago, I was talking with two guests at breakfast about their visit to Volcanoes National Park the day before. They’d been in the visitor information center and had overheard one of the rangers patiently describing the layout of the park and all its sights to a visitor. The visitor suddenly cut the ranger off midstream and yelled, “Just tell me where the goddamn lava is!”.

At first, this sort of outburst seems insane. We scratch our heads in confusion. We think they’re kidding, or that we’re all being taped. Then, when we realize they’re dead-serious, we want to shake these people by the shoulders and say, “how can you be so unhappy in such a beautiful place?”, “what’s the matter with you!” (Or something less polite.) Unfortunately, this is not the first time I’ve heard – or heard of – such a sentiment. We once had a guest check in during a rainstorm and get so wildly upset over the weather he drove off, returned to the airport, and caught the next plane home (it was sunny the next day).

Certainly these visitors returned home feeling let-down by the island. It seems a total waste – of vacation, of time, of money, of potential for great discovery, experience, and pleasure. After much thought, I’ve come to realize that this sort of disappointing travel experience has to do with unrealistic expectations.

But it’s not entirely the visitor’s fault. Tourist information can be misleading. We recently were walking around downtown Kailua and picked up a tourist magazine and were startled to see not one, not two, but several articles describing dolphin encounters. So it’s no wonder visitors come here expecting - and sometimes demanding - to see dolphins. Alongside photos of snorkelers swimming with dolphins were photos of breaching humpbacks and spewing fountains of lava. Looking at this, it could be hard not to build up a lofty fantasy, and perhaps, a sense of entitlement. Based on these types of photos, all Hawaii should look like Waikiki, the sun should shine every day, whales should be breaching, dolphins and turtles should approach when snorkeling, the lava should be gushing forth, the ocean should be calm and safe, there shouldn’t be any bugs or rain or vog. With such high expectations, it would be almost impossible not to be disappointed. The Big Island is stunningly beautiful, and it is beautiful because it’s filled with wild, unspoiled, inherently unpredictable nature. Visitors need to keep this in mind.

For instance, lava viewing can be tricky. The flows shift and change and you have to know specifically where to go to see it. We always advise guests to check the park website before going if they’re intent on seeing live lava, and talking with a ranger once in the park. It may not be visible. Or, you may have to hike out of the park (which was the case most of last year). If you plan on hiking outside of park boundaries you must be prepared with the appropriate gear. Also, you don’t want to BE that close to live lava anyway. All those really gorgeous close-up photos you see of molten lava are taken by professional photographers with huge lenses a significant distance away, while wearing special protective gear (if you got too close you’d be vaporized).

In short, it’s important to be realistic and understand that Kilauea – like the ocean and the weather – is unpredictable and changeable. This is not a controlled environment, and it can be hard to accept this coming from an environment far-removed from nature. But this is where the magic lies. The Island feels so incredibly alive: trembling, brimming, spilling over with life. In Volcanoes National Park if you don’t see lava, don’t be disappointed, because live lava is just one piece of what’s going on there. Look at the tiny ferns and skeletal ohia trees with their vibrant flowers growing – yes, growing! – out of the frozen, barren-seeming lava fields. Check out the way the lava froze as it cooled, making rivulets and holes and eerie colors. Look for the olivine deposits that glint in the sun like diamonds, carefully feel the steam rising up from under rocks in Kilauea Iki, listen to the native birdsong in the rainforest, feel the ocean pound up under the rocks down at the bottom of Chain of Craters Road, listen to the lonely wind call across the desert at the petroglyph trail. How many other places are there where land is being simultaneously destroyed and created each day? Kilauea is a sacred place and many of our guests feel very moved there, as if they are closer to something greater than themselves temporarily, closer to nature, to God, to something mighty and beautiful, at once ancient and brand-new. If you’re hurriedly running after a particular goal, chances are you’ll miss this.

We would definitely recommend seeing the Volcano. Take your time, stop at the information station, see if there will be any ranger-lead nature walks that day that you could join, or any hula or art exhibits going on. Walk through the Thurston lava tube, walk Devastation Trail, Kilauea Iki, and perhaps the Petroglyph trail. Slowly drive down Chain of Craters road and stop at the bottom and walk along the shore. Listen to the pounding waves, maybe walk along the rocks or lie down on them and watch the dramatic sky shift color. It IS a powerful place. Take your time, and let it in.

Packing lists and microclimates

2009-12-13T18:11:00.000-08:00

Speaking of both microclimates AND planning for a trip to the Big Island, I thought it might be helpful to provide readers with a version of our “packing list”. As noted in my other blog, we both feel it’s important not to plan activities too tightly, but it is important to know something about the island in advance, especially because of it’s microclimates. It may sound nuts, but we usually like to leave the following in our car at all times: swimsuits, towels, sun block, light hiking shoes, sweatshirts, and jackets.

Another point to keep in mind is that the Big Island still retains much wilderness and wildness. Depending on what and how you wish to explore, you’ll want to plan accordingly. For example, the small walks and hikes directly off the two main roads within Volcanoes National Park only require comfortable walking shoes and an extra layer (in case of rain), but serious hikes out of the park boundary require closed-toed shoes, rain gear, and flashlights. You’ll also want a warm layer if you go up Mauna Kea, which is covered in snow part of the year and sports freezing winds much of the rest of the time. If you walk from South Point out to the Green Sand Beach or down into Pololu Valley, you’ll need your walking shoes/light hikers again. The issue here, like at most secluded island locations, is the rocky footing which is unkind to flip-flops and definitely requires shoes with some support.

Some of our guests also like to bring rash guards or half wetsuits for snorkeling. A rash guard or half wetsuit/wetsuit top may be something you want if you are here in the winter when the current shifts and the water is a little cooler and you plan and spending loads of time out in the water. I am quite small and have a tendency to cool down if I space out snorkeling and spend more than an hour or so out there. These items aren’t necessary, but they can also protect you against sunburn.

Besides these considerations the rest of the island is pretty easy and it’s totally possible to pack light. This is probably one of the most relaxed islands and the general uniform for guys is t-shirt, shorts, and flip-flops, and for girls is t-shirt or camisole, shorts, and flip-flops. The last “dressy” event we went to was a funeral and even there none of the men had on aloha shirts (the dressy-dress of the islands), just tees.

What's the weather really like?

2009-11-11T22:12:00.000-08:00

Last night we had our first really hard rain in months. Although rain is in the forecast again today, it is perfectly sunny and clear down here at the Inn right now. The ocean looks bright blue, the water is calm, and you can see for miles.

This brings up an interesting and un-answerable question: What’s the weather like in Hawaii? Of course we get asked this all the time, and we try to answer as best as possible, but it’s tricky. For one, it really depends on where you are on the island. To start, each island has both a windward (east) and leeward (west) side. The windward sides are always wetter, the leeward, drier. For example, on the Big Island, Hilo is the biggest town on the east side, known for its surrounding waterfalls and jungle and botanical gardens, but is also the rainiest city in the US (hence all the lush greenery). It is generally hit first and hardest by storms, and experiences rain almost daily. The Kona-side of this island is dry and sunny year-round, with occasional rains (hence the calm water, abundance of plumeria and bougainvillea, mangoes and citrus). A guest mentioned to me today that there’s a storm-warning on for Mauna Kea and Kilauea, and that there may be flooding in Hilo. This is certainly possible, but you wouldn’t know it looking outside here. Elevation also has an impact on weather patterns. Generally the higher you go the cooler and wetter it gets. For example, I have a hula sister who lives on the same road as us, but a little higher up, and I just overheard her in class discussing her battles with mildew in the closets (a common issue on the island). This isn’t an issue down here where we are, because it’s so much drier, even though we’re just a couple of miles away. Sometimes I’ll be driving up our road to go to the store, or out Middle Keei Road or Painted Church Road to see a friend, and the road will be wet with rain, while it was bone-dry down at the Inn.

Although all the travel books mention the Big Island’s micro-climates, it can be very hard to fathom these sudden changes until you get here. Here are a couple of other examples: the other day I drove up to Choice Mart, our local supermarket. When I left the Inn it was sunny and hot down here, but by the time I got up our road a couple of miles, I’d entered a cool, rainy mist. I shut off the AC and removed my sunglasses. By the time I reached the highway the sky was leaden, and when I got to Choice Mart (less than one mile down the highway), big drops of rain were falling and ominous black clouds were amassing up mauka (up in the hills). As I headed home I left the dark sky and mist and once I was home it was sunny and hot just as I’d left it. The rain was visible way up on the hillside, but never made its way down. We’ve needed rain over the last few weeks and I was a little sad the mist just hovered up mauka, taunting us. One time we took our Miata for a spin around the island. We had the AC going in the Kau Desert where the sun was blazing, the top pulled closed and the heater on in Volcano, the top open (because it was muggy) in Hilo and up the Hamakua Coast where the mist flew over us as we drove, then the top back up and the heater on in Waimea where a cold wind was blowing. By the time we followed the highway down the hills in Waimea the AC was on again because the sun was burning brightly, and we left it on through Kona.

This crazy-seeming weather actually generally reflects the variety of microclimates on the island, but of course things do shift and change. It can be sunny in Hilo, it can pour in Kona. There are two seasons in Hawaii: the wet season (late spring-early fall) and the dry season (late fall-early spring). For us, this generally means a nice shower in the late afternoon/evening during the wet season, with bright sun the rest of the time. But this year, we had a very dry summer and are already facing drought. Generally there is a drought here in South Kona in the winter-months. More storms also blow across the island during winter months, so although we may have a sunny, dry day, we may hear a tropical downpour for a few minutes after dark (like last night).

This brings us to another common question: when is the off-season in Hawaii? The real answer to this is that there isn’t one. Hawaii’s always nice. The “off season” reflects the off-season on the mainland, regardless of the weather here: the summer months are generally slower because it is nice on the mainland, the winter months are usually jam-packed (December and January being the peak months) because so much of the mainland is experiencing bad winter weather. June and September are notoriously slow since those are school-transition months for mainland families, and November is historically quite slow since most mainland travelers wait until Christmas or New Years for their long-holiday/vacation

The way we look at it is that there’s nice weather, and then there’s spectacular weather, with some anomalous days here and there (a wet day, a voggy-day, for example). In other words, it’s pretty perfect most days. We don’t have much variation in temperature, rainfall, or length of day down here in our little ocean micro-climate. A tropical rain may blow in from the ocean one night, an ominous mist may hover up mauka, a rain shower may happen four miles away, you just never know. So that’s why we can’t answer the “what’s the weather like” question, because it depends completely on where you are. It’s said on the Big Island that if you don’t like the weather, just drive for an hour and you’ll be somewhere completely different, and it’s true!

Training on the Big Island

2009-10-17T20:40:00.000-07:00

Iron Man was last weekend. The race took place on Saturday, October 10th (it's always the second Saturday in October) and as always drew lots of visitors and excitement to Kona. (For race winners and details, please visit the official Iron Man website: http://ironman.com/worldchampionship). The weeks leading up to the race are always exciting. Athletes come from all over the world to train here and acclimate to the weather before the race, and visitors pour in to volunteer, watch the race, and cheer the triathletes on. We've had both athletes and volunteers stay with us here at the Inn and their energy is always contagious.

In the spirit of Iron Man, I thought it'd be interesting to post the experiences of an athlete training on the island. Although my dad isn't a thriathlete, he is a world record-holding masters swimmer and spent the summer here training in the Bay. He took part in several local swims, including the Alii Challenge and the race to Honaunau, as well as the Waikiki Roughwater Swim on Oahu. Here's an excerpt from his summer journal:

All around me there is nothing but warm, clear, blue water. I am one hour into the 10K Alii Challenge open water swim from Keauhou Bay north to the Alii Pier in Kailua-Kona. I should be feeling good right now but I am suffering a bit and the blood sugar appears to be gone. This is not good because almost an hour and a half remain in the race. Roberta, my escort paddler, carries some food and drink so I "pull over" and try to replace the spent nutrients and then off we go.

The plans for this race started in June when we arrived at the Luana Inn for an extended summer of swimming in the beautiful waters around the big island of Hawaii. The Luana Inn is perched less than a mile above the fabled Kealakekua Bay where Captain James Cook met his demise in 1797. The inn is the perfect launching point for the open water swimmer. Kealakekua Bay is a breathtakingly beautiful crescent about 1.2 miles across. On the south side is Manini Beach and on the North side is the Captain Cook Monument.

Most of our training swims began at Manini Beach and followed the perimeter of the bay to the monument. The visual feast was fantastic. Tropical fish of fantastic colors, coral formations of surreal shapes and sizes, sea turtles, rays and the ultimate treat, populate the bay: dolphins. The spinner dolphins often come to the bay to rest and on occasion will "join" the open water swimmers. I think they find our pathetic efforts comical so we provide a source of entertainment for them. For us seeing the dolphins is electrifying and we redoubled our efforts to swim well and swim fast but most of all we try to just enjoy the moment while we are suspended in that beautiful blue medium from which all life on this planet emerged.

My swimming friends and I were preparing for a series of open water races. July 5th the Hapuna Swim a one mile race at Hapuna Beach north of Kona, July 11th the King's Swim a 1.2 mile race on the Iron Man course by Alii Pier in Kailua-Kona, August 16th the Alii Challenge a 10K race from Keauhou to the Alii Pier, and finally on Labor Day, September 7th, the 2.4 mile Waikiki Rough Water swim.

The races were wonderful and well organized but the key to the summer of swimming was all the training swims in Kealakekua Bay. Our swims were mostly about 4 kilometers in length; however, before the 10K Alii Challenge we did do a few 6K and 8K swims. After each swim we would hang out at Manini Beach and talk, eat, and plan the next swim. During the summer, I estimate we swam about 250 kilometers.

Back to the Alii Challenge. I am now about 90 minutes in the race and am still suffering a bit but we have a following sea and the King Kamehameha Hotel is starting to emerge on the horizon. At about the two-hour mark we can see the pier and then finally 2 hours and eighteen minutes after the start I am on the beach.

I will be back next year to do it again!

Hula

2009-09-22T23:12:00.000-07:00

One of the things I (Erin) love to do is practice hula. The graceful movements, haunting chants, and beautiful language and music can be very moving to behold, let alone take part in. Sometimes, when I exit the building we practice in, it is raining softly and there are pink plumeria blossoms sticking to the hood of my car. I drive home as the sun is setting and I cannot believe how fortunate I am. I’ve just spent an hour dancing dances that are so beautiful they make me want to cry; singing about nature, about winds and mists and flowers and the ocean and love, telling stories with our fingers and hands and feet. Although I am a novice, I can feel clearly that this is a view into the Hawaiian language, into Hawaiian history, a connection to the people and the place.

One of the best opportunities to watch hula is at the Merrie Monarch festival (http://www.merriemonarchfestival.org/index.html) held each year in March/April in Hilo. Dancers come from all over the world and the festival lasts for several days. In July during the cultural festivals dancing can also be seen. You never know when you’ll be lucky enough to come upon hula…there may be a class outside in a park, or a small party at a beach, or a local festival that you luckily happen upon. To take part in a local class in South Kona visit the Society for Kona’s Education and Arts website: http://www.skea.org/. (SKEA also offers ukulele, yoga, and pilates classes and is just about a ten minute drive from the Inn.) There is so much more to hula than what you may see at a resort luau. As it says on the Merrie Monarch website: “Hula is the language of the heart, therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.”

Yoga Practice

2009-09-04T11:23:00.000-07:00

Many of our guests are interested in taking a yoga class while staying with us. There is a lot of yoga on the Big Island but the closest options for guests of Luana Inn are:

Big Island Yoga Center (Iyengar classes daily)
http://www.bigislandyoga.com/home.html
Big Island yoga is located right up in Kealakekua off Hwy 11, less than seven miles (about fifteen minutes) from the Inn.

Paleaku Peace Gardens (Ashtanga class in the pavilion)
http://www.paleaku.com/
Tuesdays, 9:30 - 11:00am, Thursdays, 5:30 – 7:00pm
In the Pavilion: $12/drop-in or 8 classes/$80
Please pre-register for this class, Call Hooda 937-4462

Paleaku is where I practice yoga and I love it. It’s this beautiful piece of property about a five-minute drive from the Inn, up Napoopoo to Middle Keei, then out Painted Church. This neighborhood is very lush and wet and filled with lots of small farms. (It’s also a great area to walk and run.) Paleaku has beautiful grounds with several different small theme-gardens. Yoga class takes place in an open-air pavilion facing the water. Many nights I’ve heard the pitter-patter of rain on the roof as we practice, and watched the sun sink into the horizon behind my teacher. It’s a magical place to practice.

We also encourage our yoga-minded guests to feel free to set up a mat or beach towel out on the lanai or on one of our large lawns. The Inn grounds are a stunning place to practice yoga.

Our favorite garden

2009-08-20T14:38:00.001-07:00

Speaking of botanical gardens, our favorite garden is actually right here in South Kona. There is a very special small garden, called the Amy Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden, just up the road on the highway. If you take a right off Napoopoo (our road) and head south, you'll see a small sign on your left less than a mile south (before Choice Mart supermarket). I am a fan of botanical gardens and fell in love with this special place the first time I visited it. Unlike other gardens, its focus is native and endemic species, and it highlights how the native Hawaiians farmed their land from mauka to makai (large trees like sandalwood grown up high, taro, ti, and turmeric down low, etc.) and how they used various plants and trees (for food, medicine, dying, carving, etc.). The garden is obviously lovingly maintained and is a quiet, peaceful, beautiful place to learn and relax. I have spent many a quiet moment there, resting on the grass under a softly rustling old tree. For more information, check out their page on the Bishop Museum's website:

http://www.bishopmuseum.org/exhibits/greenwell/greenwell.html

A visit to the windward side

2009-08-20T14:21:00.000-07:00

We just returned from a two-day mini break on the Hilo-side of the island. The green and damp, mist and rain, fragrant ginger and coqui frogs make for a relaxing change of scene for us.

The first day, we went to Queen Liliuokalani Park and Coconut Island. It was a sunny clear day and both were gorgeous. Queen L Park is a great place to relax with a book and Coconut Island is a wonderful place for children (safe areas to get into the water, soft short grass and shade). We also visited the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Gardens on this trip and were quite impressed. The gardens span a huge piece of property that unfolds down to the ocean’s edge, so it feels like you’re wandering through lush natural rainforest, rather than a manicured garden. We saw some extremely exotic plants including our new favorite, the white bat plant. We also made a visit to Akaka and Kahuna falls, both lovely (although almost overwhelmingly touristy and crowded) and marveled at the huge old mossy bamboo and all the different kinds of ginger. (We also like Rainbow Falls, which is less crowded and in a park with some huge old banyan trees.)

We didn’t stop at Kalopa Park this time, which is our favorite place on that side of the island. It is way up a winding farm road off the highway, about twenty minutes south of Honokaa. It has a park area with native hibiscus growing and a nature trail, as well as a longer hike through beautiful dense forest to misty cattle pasture, then back along a deep ravine through dripping damp eucalyptus and ginger. Kalopa is an off-the-beaten path sort of place, a beautiful hidden forest treasure.

Although we wouldn't want to live on the east side, we do enjoy a visit now and then. The rain does make for some outstandingly lush scenery. There’s something haunting and special about a dark, misty forest scented with yellow ginger flowers and damp earth.

Snorkeling Snapshots - Two Step

2009-07-18T13:56:00.000-07:00

The other afternoon my father and I went snorkeling at Two Step. Two Step is one of the two most famous snorkeling spots here in South Kona (the second is at the Captain Cook monument). To get there from the Inn, we follow Napo'opo'o Road down to the water (about .8 mile), then stay on it until we reach the park (about a ten minute drive). Napo'opo'o turns into Pu'uhonua Road, the road that leads to Pu'uhonua O Honaunau national park. Two Step is just to the north of the park. We parked in the park parking lot and walked back out, down to the water. It was about three in the afternoon and there were a few people around, but it was pretty quiet. The water was calm, warm, and clear as usual. The afternoon was just a touch overcast and a misty rain fell part of the time we were down there. We jumped in and swam out a bit, then spent about an hour just floating and observing the reef world below. We saw all the normal, beautiful things: huge coral heads in lush yellow hues, brilliant-yellow tangs, vibrant rainbow parrotfish, darling little spotted box fish and shy puffers. Then we happened upon a small group of threadfin butterflyfish. These butterflies have grey cross-hatching on their sides and bright yellow on top. One particularly inquisitive little fish swam right up to us from below and looked into our faces. Neither of us had ever had this experience before. Although tolerant of snorkelers and swimmers, reef fish are watchful and shy and usually keep a distance. This little threadfin kept coming right up to us. It came so close I got a good look at its delicate little face and flowing yellow top fin. We eventually moved on, not wanting to bother it. We weren't sure if it was just curious, or if we were infringing on its territory. We exited the water feeling relaxed and refreshed as only the salt water can leave you. We marveled at the fact that each session spent in the ocean is different, each provides something new, surprising, and beautifully mysterious. It is always different, at different moments through the day, on different days, in different seasons; always filled with life, always wondrous.

Green Friends - the Stardust Gecko

2009-07-11T16:48:00.000-07:00

When you eat breakfast in our dining room, you may be greeted by one of our "green friends", the stardust geckos. Although not native to Hawaii, these little geckos are quite at home here on the Big Island and can be spotted in gardens and homes and on lanais all over the place. If you've seen the Geico gecko on TV, you'll know what they look like: a gorgeous bright green with red, gold, and blue markings. There are native geckos on the island as well. They are tan or brown with dark markings and hunt at night. You may hear the native geckos “barking” as they hang out near lights in the evening, hunting moths. But it is the green geckos that charm most visitors. They are inquisitive little creatures, bravely hanging out near us on the walls or ceilings, waiting for a handout. They eat insects, nectar, and fruit. We have a couple "kitchen" geckos that wait around each morning for a piece of fruit. We give them their own little saucer of fruit. So please don't be alarmed if you see one of these gorgeous guys during your stay, they are harmless to humans and are very beautiful, helpful creatures.

Open water swimming, anyone?

2009-06-21T14:20:00.000-07:00

Kealakekua Bay is known for its beauty, but it's hard to comprehend how truly beautiful it is until you're here. For many people, a morning dip at Manini Beach or a swim across the bay to the Captain Cook monument are weekly or daily rituals. The bay is normally quite calm, has tremendous clarity, and a healthy, gorgeous reef rich with sea life. In short, it is a fabulous place for swimming.

I'll never forget the first time my dad came to visit us here. Like many first-time visitors to the Inn, he didn't really realize how close we actually are to the bay, and how immensely beautiful this area is. We walked down to Manini Beach one morning and I could see him getting more excited by the second as we viewed the water. My dad happens to be a world-record-holding Masters Swimmer, and I could tell he was just about to jump out of his skin with excitement. He ended up diving in right at Manini and swimming over to Napoopoo Beach. Since that first visit he has come to see us many times and is now staying with us for the summer. He starts each day with a swim in the bay and is still in love with it.

It is difficult to express in a few paragraphs or photos, or even on a map how special this area is. If you love the water, whether for training as a triathlete, as a diver, or for a peaceful daily dip, you'll be in heaven. It is especially nice for athletes taking part in Honu, LavaMan, or IronMan because we are conveniently close to Kailua, while not stuck in the noise and hubbub of the town itself. We are a quiet refuge surrounded by sublime water and excellent roads for running and biking. What more can we say? Yellow tangs visible from the road, plumeria blossoms falling onto the pavement as you run…it’s just too beautiful for words!

Cultural Festival June 27 and June 28

2009-06-11T10:40:00.000-07:00

Another wonderful thing to keep in mind about visiting the Big Island in the summer is that summer is the season for cultural festivals. They happen all over the island, but the one that is closest to us here at Luana is the festival at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau, the City of Refuge National Park. This year it takes place over the weekend of June 27 and June 28. The 27th will be the craft-day and the 28th will have Hawaiian food-tasting. Usually the events open and close with a traditional ceremony, and there are lots of wonderful displays and activities to try like carving ipu (wooden gourds used like drums in hula), chanting, dancing, canoe rides, lei making, weaving, etc. Last year we were lucky enough to see children dance hula. It is a very special opportunity to see master craftsmen and women doing what they love, and to experience some native Hawaiian traditions in an extremely beautiful setting.

Here is the press release from Pu'uhonua o Honaunau. For more information, please visit their site: http://www.nps.gov/puho.

Pu`uhonua o Honaunau Celebrates
48th Annual Hawaiian Cultural Festival

Pu`uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park will be celebrating its 48th Anniversary and Annual Cultural Festival and on Saturday and Sunday, June 27 and 28 from 9:00 am to 3:00 pm. The theme is “Na Mea Hana Lima na Kupuna” -the working hands of our elders. Many activities are planned for both days including a royal court procession, cultural demonstrations and hula. Saturday features canoe rides and Sunday includes a hukilau and Hawaiian food tasting.

We welcome everyone to join us in experiencing the history and culture of Hawai`i and the unique Honaunau area. Bring your family and friends and spend a day in the park. Come prepared for hot weather; bring water, sturdy walking shoes, hat and sunscreen. Park fees are waived for the weekend of this special event.

Why come to the Big Island in the summer?

2009-06-03T12:45:00.000-07:00

Because so much of the mainland is nice in the summer, some people may wonder if it's worth traveling to Hawaii this time of year. Well, it is! The first thing to know about summertime on the Big Island is that the water is warmest and calmest now. Where I'm writing from, here on the Kona Coast, the waves are minimal, the water is clear, and there's lots of sunshine. Kealakekua Bay, Manini Beach, Keei Beach, and Two Step are often like a large bathtub this time of year. Walking down to Manini Beach, slipping into the gentle water, and floating on my back looking up at the blue sky is one of my greatest joys in life.

The other important thing to note about the Inn is that because we're down near the water it never gets too hot here. Our guests from Pheonix and Austin and L.A. remark on the comfortable climate here. The temperature year-round down here in our little micro-climate never passes eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit. We're lucky to have lots of sun tempered by the cooling ocean breeze. Of course we're biased, but we think it's perfect!

Farming

2009-05-20T14:34:00.000-07:00

The Big Island is a farming island. Due to the island's diverse micro-climates a variety of crops can be grown year-round. Kona is famous for being one of the world's excellent coffee-growing regions, but the Big Island produces many other major crops including macadamia nuts, papaya, bananas, and flowers such as orchids, anthurium, and protea. At a single meal you may have delicate local lettuce and juicy tomatoes and cucumbers grown in the cool moist Waimea uplands, beef and milk from local cattle raised on the Hilo-side, mushrooms from the damp Hamakua area, marlin caught off the Kona coast, poi from Waipio valley, and passionfruit from the Hawi area.

Right in our neighborhood we have: a plumeria farm, a large coffee farm (although most people also grow a few plants on their property), a huge coffee roastery, a macadamia nut processing plant, a queen bee farm, a honey processing plant, a plumeria farm, and a large orchid farm next door. In addition to these large operations, everyone we know grows some food on their property. Papayas grow like weeds here and just about everyone in our neighborhood has some papaya trees, as well as citrus which does great down here near the ocean in the sun and heat. Here at the Inn we grow green figs, tangerines, starfruit, white pineapple (a local delicacy), mangoes, and coconuts. We also rotate various vegetables and herbs like lemongrass, sweet potatoes, kale, citronella, and amaranth. (We also just added a Tahitian lime and a Meyer lemon and will continue to add more food-trees each year.) Our neighbors produce oranges, limes, lemons, avocados, pummelos, bananas, tangelos, lychee, surinam cherry, and jaboticaba, among others. We often share and/or exchange fruit since it is so plentiful, different things are ready at different times, and we all grow different varieties. It is a wonderful luxury to live in a place with so much local food and such a strong sense of pride in the land.