I was walking Painted Church Road again the other morning, admiring the flowering trees and birds, thinking how much I love this walk.  I’ve walked it for years, at all hours of the day, through all seasons, and just don’t tire of it.  It’s another winding farm road and it, like Napo’opo’o, or Manini Beach Road, are remarkably beautiful.

Sometimes we joke that Hawaii is a big pile of rocks in the middle of the ocean.  The thing about the big pile of rocks is that it is outrageously gorgeous.  But make no mistake about it, the nature of these volcanic islands is that they’re mountainous and feature dramatic rock formations, hills, and cliffs.  The older the island, the more dramatic these features are.  This is what makes for the variety of microclimates we have here, as well as the unmatched beauty.  However, this also means that there are plenty of windy mountain roads to navigate.  For some visitors, this is no big deal, for others, it can be a little nerve-wracking.

We have observed that the way you feel about the roads here will be based on what you’re used to.  If you come from a place with broad, flat roads, Hawaii’s winding, coastal roads may be a little nerve-wracking for you to drive.  If you come from a mountainous area, Napo’opo’o, or any of the island’s roads, will not be a big deal.  We’ve had guests lovingly count each bend and turn in our road, pining for a nice sporty little car rather than their rental, they found it so beautiful.  We’ve had others who found its turns exhausting and tiring.  Unfortunately it’s something that you have to get used to being in Hawaii.  With the sheer cliffs and steep mountains come the stunning views, the mind-blowing tropical foliage, and some of the island’s most spectacular spots.

Last month our local supermarket, Choice Mart, celebrated it’s tenth anniversary.  Choice Mart is a fantastic little neighborhood market and I can’t imagine South Kona life without it.  Although not a huge market – like Times or KTA or Safeway – it has just about everything a guest could need.  If you’re arriving in Kona midday, don’t be tempted to stop at Safeway or Wallmart on the way down from the airport (Costco is the only exception because of it’s stellar cheap-wine selection and mega-portions of local fish and pre-packed sashimi plates).  Wait for Choice Mart.

Choice Mart is located in South Kona right off the highway, less than one mile south of the turnoff for Napo’opo’o Road (in other words, about fifteen minutes from the Inn).  They always have local produce, including lettuces – commercial and organic, cucumbers, tomatoes (including new local-grown heirloom), potatoes, papayas, bananas, and other exotic fruit, as well as fresh fish and local grass-fed beef.  One of our guests’ consistently favorite meals is local beef and/or fish and sweet potatoes from Choice Mart, grilled simply with salt and oil out on the lanai BBQ for a sunset dinner.  Choice Mart also has wine, beer, and liquor, as well as a small natural-foods section and a deli.  They have poke – raw tuna salad with soy sauce, red pepper, sesame oil – in both the seafood section and the deli, and laulau (meat steamed in taro or ti leaves) in the deli, if you’re in the mood for some local eats.  They also usually have one or two varieties of the local beers (there are two breweries on the island, Mehana in Hilo and Kona on this side).  If you see Kona Brewery’s kona-coffee brew, try it!  Choice Mart also sometimes has tuberose leis (amazing), exotic fruit posters, sunblock, and sand buckets and tools for kids.  Here’s to little, local supermarkets.

 

Although Kona is the dry side of the island, it still rains here.  That’s why it’s so green and lush and lovely.  Now that it’s spring and the drought appears to have ended, our normal wet-season weather has returned.  For the Kona side of the island, this generally means a soft rain shower in the afternoon or evening, with sun the rest of the time.  Some days we get a little shower in the morning, some days it’s clear and sunny all day long.   The rain, when it does come, is normally soft and warm and quite pleasant.  If it’s raining, try not to be bummed out.  Here are some things to do:

• Get in the water.  Unless it’s windy or the sky is very dark, visibility should still be good.  You’ll get wet anyway, so why not?
• Go to Volcano, it’s usually wet anyway. 
• Go to Pu’uhonua o Honaunua.  It is normally very hot and dry at this park, and it feels good to be down there when it’s a little overcast.  It’s always gorgeous, so it doesn’t matter when you go.
• Go coffee-tasting.  There are lots of farms in our South Kona neighborhood, so drive around and sample a few coffees.
• Go book-browsing: there are two nice bookstores in South Kona.  The Reading Garden is just south of us and has a vast inventory of used books, and there's a small new bookstore tucked into Mango Court next to the health food store just north of us.
• Sit in the hot tub.  There’s nothing like sitting in the hot tub on a drizzly day (especially after an ocean swim or dip in the pool). 
• Have a massage.  It’s pretty fantastic to have a luxurious in-room massage on a cool afternoon, and then go slip into the hot tub to watch the sun set.
• Visit botanical gardens: we have the Ethnobotanical Garden and Paleaku Peace Gardens close by which are both fantastically beautiful swathed in mist.
• Rest on the lanai with a book: because it's never cold, sitting outside on the covered portion of the lanai while watching the rain drops splash onto the surface of the pool is wonderfully pleasant.  From our lanai you have a massive view of both sky and ocean, and it is fascinating to watch a storm system pass overhead.

Speaking of Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Park, it's time for the summer cultural festival again!  This is an absolute must-see for visitors.  You may be lucky enough to see some hula, hear some chanting, try kava, make an ipu, or sample some Hawaiian food.  Bring water, wear sun block, and have a wonderful time!  Below is the announcement from our friend, Ranger Charlie Hua.  

For more details, check out the park website: http://www.nps.gov/puho/index.htm

Aloha everyone,

Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park will be celebrating its 49^th Anniversary and Annual Cultural Festival on Saturday, June 26^th, and Sunday, June 27^th, from 9:00am to 3:00pm. Our theme for this year is, “Nā Hana Lima o nā Kūpuna”, The Working Hands of Our Elders.  Activities include the Royal court, Hula performances, Hukilau, Canoe Rides, Food Tasting, Hawaiian games for keiki and various Hawaiian crafts. Be sure to pack some sunscreen, water, and hats. There will be no lunch available, so pack snacks or a lunch if necessary. This event is free and park fees are waived for the weekend of this special event.

 

Mahalo,

Hope to see you all there.

Charles T. Hua

 

The other morning my son’s preschool had their final class at Pu’uhonua o Honaunau in the water by Two Step.  Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, otherwise known as the City of Refuge, is a “must see” tourist destination in our neighborhood.  It is a historically important site, but also a stunningly beautiful national park.

The park is divided into three main areas.  First, there’s the main visitor area.  This is where the main historic sites and rangers are (if you happen to be there when ranger Charlie is, hit him up for historical info because he’s a fantastic local resource).  This is where the Wednesday evening talks take place, as well as the cultural festival in June.  If you continue down the dirt road at the back of the parking area you’ll arrive at the picnic area which runs along the rocky coast, an excellent place to explore tide pools and watch the sun set.  There’s a lovely short trail (the 1871 trail) that you can follow along the shore at the back of the picnic area.  It apparently stretches all the way to Hookena Beach, but only the part within the park is maintained.  The third spot to note is “Two Step” which is on the northern boundary of the park.  So, if you park in the parking lot and walk back out, follow the residential side street down to the water, you’ll get to one of the top two (the Captain Cook monument being the other) snorkeling spots on the Big Island.

The other day when I was there the preschoolers were playing in the shallow, sandy boat-launch area next to Two Step.  The sun was shining brightly and it was very hot, as it often is down there.  Although the park is only four miles south of the Inn, it is noticeably warmer and dryer.  This day, vog was visible up mauka skirting the hill tops, but the sky over the park was clear and blue.  I played in the water with the kids for a little while and cooled off, then was offered a massage by another mother.  We walked over to a shaded area under a large kukui nut tree where she’d set up her table.  As I lay there and relaxed and heard the kids’ laughter in the background and felt the ocean breeze on my bare back, I slipped into the beach-coma I often get at that park.

Pu’uhonua is certainly a special place.  It’s very peaceful, and I am seduced by its beauty each time I go.  The alii (Hawaiian royalty) definitely knew what they were doing in choosing such a fine spot to live.  If I were a visitor here, I would give this park at least one full afternoon.  If you plan on snorkeling at Two Step and exploring the park, you could easily give it more time.  Some visitors prefer Two Step to the Captain Cook monument for snorkeling.  For one, it’s easier to get to – you just drive up and jump in.  Second, because it’s immediately deep, it’s actually a little safer than a place like Manini (which is shallow and sometimes has a bit of a break) for the novice snorkeler.  It has all the same species of reef fish that you see throughout Kealakekua Bay (whether at the monument, Manini, or Keei beach), but arguably more varieties of coral.  There are more turtles in this area, and the local dolphins, eels, rays, young reef sharks, and occasionally an octopus or monk seal also sometimes make an appearance.

Besides getting in the water here, I am a fan of the 1871 trail.  I often used to take my dog along this trail, until he got too old and arthritic to handle the heat and the rocks.  The trail runs right along the shore, up along cliffs part of the way, and across lava.  It’s very quiet, and the views are spectacular.  The water is so consistently clear here that you can look down into it from the cliffs and see the coral.  The shades of water are unendingly varied and striking, and the view of the coastline is dramatic.  It takes only about twenty minutes each way to walk this short portion of the trail.  Footing is somewhat rough.  Walking is easy, running is more of a challenge. 

When I returned home the other day, I carried the warmth of the park with me throughout the rest of my work day.  You have to be careful down there at that beautiful park; you will soak up so much sun and warmth and peace that it may be hard to want to do anything else the rest of the day but lie around the lanai gazing at the ocean and slowly sipping a cool drink…

Recently, we had two guests alert us to a fantastic new opportunity to hear local music. The old Hualalai Theater in Kailua Town has been converted into the LEAD community center, which is hosting an ongoing Hawaiian music concert series, Live at the Lead. 
The LEAD Center is easy to find, located right in the heart of Kailua-Kona off the Kuakini Highway. Concerts are every other Friday evening.  To learn more about local artists and see the calendar of events, please check out: www.livehawaiianmusic.com. 
Another source for finding out about local entertainment is the Big Island Weekly: www.bigislandweekly.com.  Hawaii has some fantastic local musicians and we strongly recommend taking the opportunity to see some live music while here on vacation.

Last year the island suffered a drought that left many trees and plants dead.  Normally there is a wet season that spans late spring to early fall. This manifests differently across the island.  For us here down by the water, this means sunny days followed by a late afternoon or evening shower – perfect irrigation.  Last year we had month after month of dry sunny weather which was great as far as our guests were concerned, but very difficult for island plants and trees.  Each time the sky darkened and seemed to threaten rain residents would get excited and hopeful.  One afternoon while I was in Choice Mart it began to rain and the excitement in the air in the store was palpable.  A buzz of happy voices surrounded me and I overheard “it’s a blessing” echoed excitedly and with relief multiple times.  This is a farming island, after all, and adequate rainfall is critical.
I’ve been taking long walks out Painted Church Road and have been watching the coffee plants.  Many have looked brown and skeletal, with cherries that have gone from ripe-red to shriveled black on the tree.  However, over the last few weeks we have begun to receive soft evening showers, and the plant life has suddenly swung back to life.  So far this spring we have been experiencing a more normal weather pattern, and the land is become green again.  Last week as I walked I smelled the familiar, seductive jasmine-scent of coffee blossoms on the soft air, and was happy to see that the coffee plants are in bloom.  Spring has come, and with it, the soft, warm, nurturing island rains.

It happened again the other day… We had two different sets of guests arrive within the same couple of days who’d started their trips in Hilo and were aching to see the sun.  This has happened so many times that whenever prospective guests ask us about splitting up their stay between Hilo and Kona, we try to clearly describe the two very different climates and what to expect.  It’s a difficult task.  We don’t want to sound like we’re just trying to sell more nights at our Inn, but we do want to be truthful about the weather patterns.  We’re always trying to help guests prepare and plan.  At the end of the day, we want them to be happy. 
The problem is that the drear and gray that define Hilo’s weather seem to catch many visitors unaware.  Especially if you’ve never been to the Big Island, it can be difficult to envision how its many mirco-climates can actually effect your experience, even when reading through tourist literature.
To get down to the point, Hilo is notoriously damp and overcast.  We’ve heard stories of mildewed clothes in closets and mold infestations and dripping wallpaper, etc.  Each island has a rainy side and a sunny side.  The rain makes for the dramatic waterfalls and beautiful botanical gardens, but it can also be a dreary backdrop for a vacation.  I can’t tell you how many visitors we’ve had who’ve stayed there first, often splitting a one week or two week stay between Hilo and Kona, and are desperate for sun once they arrive in Kona.  We’ve had more than one guest say that they wished they’d limited their time on the other side and spent the bulk of their stay here.
Everyone is different, of course.  We had some guests recently who were from Colorado and found the humidity of Hilo soothing in contrast to their cold, dry home.  For many of our guests who’ve come from Alaska or the Pacific Northwest, Hilo feels to be just another small, weather-beaten town, for other guests, it can feel charming and funky.  Even for guests who do spend their stay on the Kona side, we do suggest at least a day trip around the island to see Hawaii Botanical Gardens, perhaps Akaka and Kahuna and/or Rainbow Falls, and the lovely winding Hamakua Coastline.  If I had one week on the island, I’d spend my time in Kona and do a day trip to the other side.  If I had two weeks, I may spend a day or two on the other side (Hilo, Volcano, or Honokaa/Waipio), and the bulk of my time in Kona.   

With the recent tsunami we are reminded once again that we live in an unpredictable place ruled by nature.  We have heard it said more than once that “Pele will test you”, when you live here.  Tsunamis may come, earthquakes can happen, strange storms blow through, the volcano erupts and burps vog, and the ocean can shift from smooth bathtub to churning froth in a day.  Do residents fear these things?  No.  Should visitors?  No.  The magic of this place IS the energy that abounds.
For many visitors, the Big Island is a place of transition.  We’ve had guests come here for many reasons: for honeymoons and anniversaries and baby moons and weddings, but also to relax, be still, and heal.  When you’re standing at the cliffs at Pu’uhonua staring down into the clear water, or floating on your back at Manini at sunset, or simply watching the ocean shift through the day from our lanai, it is easy to once again feel small but significant.  You watch the big sky shift in the volcano or feel the wind rush through at South Point or hear the surf pound relentlessly at Punalu’u and you can’t help but be reminded of your connection to something greater than yourself.  For some, this is an inspirational/life-changing/affirming/peaceful feeling, for others, it’s disturbing.
There seems to be a love/hate relationship with the Big Island.  Some visitors are heart-broken when they have to leave, already planning their next trip.  Others seem disappointed in the island and its vast spaces and big energy and unpredictable weather.  I had a guest admit to me today that her vision of Hawaii had been Waikiki.  She spent time in Honolulu and didn’t like it, and had figured all Hawaii was this way.  For her, the Big Island has been eye-opening and marvelous, but for other guests, it seems to be jarring and overwhelming.  As I mentioned in my entry about guests being set on seeing live lava flowing after looking at all the tourist literature, having a check-list mentality here can lead to disappointment.  The Big Island is not for everyone.  For visitors to the islands who dream of shopping in Waikiki, or relaxing in a controlled environment, then staying at a resort, or remaining in Honolulu is probably the best fit.  For guests who are entranced by the idea of so much wildness, who like the idea of silence and being alone and of exploring off-the-beaten-path, the Big Island will most likely be one of the most remarkable places they’ll ever visit.

One of the most popular South Kona tourist activities is kayaking across Kealakekua Bay to the Captain Cook monument.  The bay is an absolutely beautiful place to snorkel and swim.  It is a marine life sanctuary and boasts some of the clearest water and healthiest reef in Hawaii.  Unfortunately, this pristine environment has started to show signs of wear and destruction due to rampant and uncontrolled use.  

This brings up a question that continuously haunts the State: how to encourage responsible tourism whilst protecting our precious environment.  For years the plan to control kayaking across the bay has been discussed.  Kayaking – like snorkeling - can be damaging to the reef because inexperienced visitors touch/step on/drag boats across the reef, killing the coral.  Finally, the talk has turned into action and as of February 23, 2010, kayaking will only be allowed with a permit in Kealakekua Bay.  This is a wise move by the State and will ensure the reef has time to heal.  Visitors shouldn’t be discouraged by this.  It will be safer and more fun to go as part of a small guided tour, anyway.  This is a historical area and there’s loads of information that would be missed going it alone.  Here are the details:

Permit applications are available online at:

http://hawaiistateparks.org/documents/hsp_kaawaloa_vessel_landing_permit1.pdf

Completed applications can be emailed to: dean.h.takebayashi@hawaii.gov

Faxed to: 808.974.6222

Information line: 808.974.6206